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Why should I buy from a pro shop? I've seen the same equipment so much cheaper over the Internet.
What actually is the difference between plastic, urethane, reactive resin, and partical cover stocks? I'm confused!
How should I determine what ball weight is correct for me?
Conventional vs. fingertip -- what's right for me?
What is a ball's track and a track flare?
Fingertip grips... Can they cause the bridge to crack out. Why?
How often should my equipment be cleaned? Sanded? Resurfaced?
My child bowls with a ball from the bowling center. Should I consider purchasing a new one for him? Does it matter if he's still growing?
What is a Custom Thumb?
What is the pin of the ball and what significance does it have?
I have heard bowlers talking about having finger weight and side weight in their bowling balls. What does this mean?
What significance does Static Imbalance have on the high performance equipment of today?
How can a round object have sides?
How many holes are allowed in a bowling ball?
Why should I buy from a pro shop? I've seen the same equipment so much cheaper over the Internet.
Good question! Let's add it up. The cost of a ball
purchased at a pro shop normally includes the ball, initial
fitting, drilling, and a second (post-drill) fitting
session. Most proshops carefully check their products, and
want to pass along only the best in quality. The cost of a
ball purchased from a source other than a pro shop is just
that; the cost of the ball. It does not include
shipping/handling, applicable COD charges, fitting,
drilling, slugs, or grips. When you add up the costs, buying
a ball elsewhere may run you just as much, if not more than
it would at a reputable pro shop! If you later determine
that the ball is wrong for you or defective (top weight, pin
placements, etc.) get ready to pay shipping/handling again,
and be without your equipment for a period of time. Proshops
offer other perks besides being able to see what you are
purchasing. Staff members can offer you tips to improve your
game, choose the proper equipment for you, and even help you
get the edge on your competition (and those nasty lane
conditions, too). Pro shop personnel will work with you to
tailor your equipment to your game, and allow you to better
enjoy your time on the lanes. Support your pro shop, and it
will support you!
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What
actually is the difference between plastic, urethane,
reactive resin, and partical cover stocks? I'm confused!
The big difference between each of the coverstock materials is the performance.
Plastic bowling balls
are basically what all the house balls are made of. These balls will have a
basic pancake weight block design and will not allow for very much track flare.
These balls are excellent for children and beginners who are new to the game and
want to have a ball that fits their hand correctly, and learn the basics of the
game. These balls will not hook very much, but are effective for playing a
straighter line to the pins. Higher average bowlers benefit from plastic as well
by using these balls to shoot spares. The predictability of the ball's hook
will help keep it on line to your spare shot.
Urethane balls were
introduced in the early eighties. This material is more durable than plastic,
and has more surface friction and better contact with the lane than plastic
does. This ball is usually the next step up from plastic and will allow you to
play a bigger hook to the pocket with less deflection compared to the plastic
ball. There are a few more options available as far as the shape of the core.
This will allow the ball to flare a little more, adding more hook potential to
the ball. These balls today are not readily available and may need to be specially ordered.
Reactive resin balls
were introduced in the early nineties. Manufacturers created this coverstock by
putting additives in the urethane formula to create a "tacky" feel to the ball.
Resin balls are also known as reactive urethane. This created a much bigger
reaction in the bowling ball. This was especially noticed toward the back end of
the lane in front of the pins. Bowlers are able to create severe angle to the
pocket. When this ball was introduced, it was the start of a whole new
revolution to the game. Bowlers with less hand action were now able to compete
with the big crankers. Balls with this new coverstock was even nicknamed "cheater balls"
This was because this new cover seemed to have no
respect for the oil, and would hook back to the pocket from almost anywhere. You
now saw the straighter players using the same angle to the pocket that the
crankers would play. The scoring pace has picked up an incredible amount since
the invention of this material. Because this cover reacts so much harder, it
will also be a little more erratic at times as well. The nature of this cover is
to skid more through the oil and react very sharply to the drier part of the
lane. There is a much bigger variety of core shapes with this cover, and
technology has allowed for this material to get more predictable as each
generation of new resin is made. The range of hook is much greater and the balls
are able to be more finely tuned to the bowler's game now.
Partical coverstocks were introduced about 1998 by Brunswick. Now everybody makes them.
This coverstock is the next
revolution in bowling balls. The coverstock has an entirely different feel to
it. What this does is give the ball a sort of traction effect with the lanes, sort of
like an all weather tire does on the highway. The heavier oil that is being used
to combat the resin balls doesn't seem to hold the ball back any. With the partical coverstock balls,
you are going to get a look similar to the urethane
balls of the past. This incorporates the benefits of both materials. You get the
predictability of the urethane balls, with the hook and power of a resin ball.
This ball will give you a strong even arcing reaction that still lets you cut
through the oil letting you stay aggressive with your shot.
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How should I determine what ball weight is correct for me?
There are a lot of opinions of how heavy a ball you should throw. Many people think that you want a
really light ball that you can heave down the lane, and many try to throw a real heavy ball as well. The truth is that everyone is built a little differently,
and different weights will apply. One thing to keep in mind is that the collective weight of the pins you are trying to knock down is a little over 30
pounds. Each pin weighs between 3 lbs. 6oz. to 3lbs. 10oz. Add it up and that's a pretty good amount of weight in that triangle down at the end of the lane.
Simple physics will tell you that a heavier ball will tend to not deflect off the pins as much as a lighter ball will. We believe that you should throw the
heaviest ball that you can comfortably handle without causing any excess fatigue while you bowl. Feeling a little tired is normal, since this is still a sport
that involves physical activity. A common occurrence that we see is when people make decisions on ball weight based on the feel of the house balls provided at
the bowling center. While this can be a good guide to how a ball feels when you throw it, this can also be a little confusing as well. The bowling balls that
the centers provide are drilled for the purpose of many people using them. The lighter weight balls generally have smaller holes drilled in them, and as the
weight increases, so do the size of the holes. Sometimes the ball with the correct weight will have very large holes drilled in them so you have to squeeze
the ball excessively to hold on to it. This makes the ball feel much heavier on your hand. It's quite possible that a ball that is fit correctly, can be handled
as easily as a house ball that weighs as much as 1 - 2 pounds less! The best thing to do is talk to your pro shop professional, and together you will come up
with the weight that is best for you with a custom fit that is designed only for your hand.
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Conventional vs. fingertip -- what's right for me?
You have probably heard references made to the different types of grips that are drilled into a bowling
ball. There are two basic grips that you may have heard of. Conventional and fingertip.
First, the most basic grip used and the grip that most everyone will experience is the conventional
grip. The holes are drilled in such a manner that you insert your fingers into the ball up to the second joint and the thumb all the way in the ball. This grip
gives you the most control on the ball, but somewhat limits the amount of rotation required to hook the ball a lot. However, this doesn't mean that it
can't be done. We've seen some pretty big hook come out of some people that use conventional grips.
The fingertip grip is the most popular grip used for the more experienced bowlers. The fingers are
only inserted up to the first joint, and the thumb inserted all the way in. This allows for a quick release and a very fast hand action, creating the best
opportunity for strong rotation and hook.
Generally, we would suggest a conventional grip for beginners and bowlers who average below 150-160. This grip is the easiest to hold on to, and properly fit, will help the beginner
learn the basics of the game and improve their average. These are only guides, and not all bowlers under 150 use conventional grips. The fingertip grip is
generally used when the bowler's average starts to improve, and they want to take their game to the next level. One of the biggest keys to bowling is repetition. A
good comfortable grip is the way to start.
The main constant of the grips mentioned above is that the thumb is inserted all the way. This is what keeps the ball on your hand and the feel of the release depends on the
thumb's position as you let go. Any time you drill a ball, it's usually a good idea to bring the ball you currently use with you. Your pro shop professional
will be able to use that information to make any adjustments that are necessary to your grip. If the ball feels good on your hand, they can use that as well to
copy that grip to your new ball.
NOTE: The amount of hook you get from a ball is affected by many variables including; grip, type of ball construction, coverstock, drilling pattern, etc... Due to these factors,
it is conceivable to see someone achieve more hook using a conventional grip than another using a fingertip grip, depending on the type of ball being
used.
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What is a ball's track and a track flare?
The track of a bowling ball is the area that contacts the lane surface as it rolls down the lane. Some balls have a very narrow ribbon for a track and others have a wide
bow shape for a track. All high performance balls have track flare. Track flare is created by the dynamic imbalance of the ball rolling down the lane. The weight
block is trying to reach a point of stability as it rolls down the lane. The greater the imbalance, the greater the track flare is created. This also allows
for a fresh part of the ball to always contact the lane surface creating more hook and more energy used to get the ball down the lane.
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Fingertip grips... Can they cause the bridge to crack out. Why?
Yes, finger grips can cause the bridge to /crack out. First, you must know that every manufacturer
voids their warranty on a ball when finger inserts are used! There are several schools of thought as to what causes this cracking. The first says the glue used
to hold the inserts in reacts with the coverstock material, which makes the coverstock more brittle, and therefore easier to crack when it hits the pins or
something in the ball return equipment. The second school says that when most ball drillers drill holes into a ball for inserts, they do not bevel the holes,
which weakens the edges, and therefore allows cracking. There is also a thought that some reactive resin coverstock materials are naturally more brittle,
allowing the bridges to crack easier and sometimes split even as the ball is being drilled. This cracking is not limited to just the bridge. Cracking can
occur around any given drilled hole into which inserts or slugs are installed. So this problem is not confined to only the bridge of a ball. This is not meant
to dissuade you from purchasing grips or inserts! These tools can be extremely beneficial to your game, and many, many people use them (including us). It is
just meant to inform you of a potential situation that you may be faced with. We urge you to talk to your pro shop staff if you have any concerns.
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How often should my equipment be cleaned? Sanded? Resurfaced?
All bowling balls should be cleaned after each use. This can be done by using any cleaning product available from your favorite pro shop, or using a commercially available
cleaning product that will not leave a residue on, or damage the ball. All balls pick up dirt, oil, and other foreign substances as they roll down the lanes and
up the ball return equipment. This can alter the ball's reaction by hardening in the pores and on the surface. By keeping the ball clean, the ball will react
more like when it was new, for longer. If you use a dull sanded ball, and with normal cleaning the ball doesn't react as well as it used to, it is time to sand
the ball. This will bring it back close to its out of box condition and reaction. As a bowling ball goes down the lane and it crosses a seam, a small
nick may be caused on the surface of the ball. Once there are enough of these little nicks to cause a loss of reaction, it is time to resurface the ball. This
can be done to any ball, including polished balls. They are sanded smooth again and then refinished to their out of box condition. Plastic balls should be
polished often to keep them working as they should. They can also be resurfaced when the need arises. Your favorite pro shop should do sanding and resurfacing,
so it is done properly.
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My child bowls with a ball from the bowling center. Should I consider purchasing a new one for him? Does it matter if he's still growing?
It is always best for the bowler to be able to use a ball drilled for them. It really doesn't matter if they are still growing. A bowling ball can be plugged and
redrilled several times before it needs to be discarded. Even as the hand changes, the weight of the ball may remain alright for the child for 1 - 2 refits.
Weight does not become a factor until they start to grow and get stronger. With the cost of the type of equipment a youth bowler would use, it isn't a bad
idea to purchase a new ball. Even when the child grows out of it, you can always hand it down to a younger generation of bowling youth. The exception to this
are 6lb., 7lb., and some 8lb. balls as they have styrofoam for a core which does not allow the ball to be plugged and redrilled.
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What is a Custom Thumb?
Custom Thumb is a trade name for a thumb insert that can be installed in your bowling ball. There are several different manufacturers and systems available that create thumb
inserts. What you need to do is determine which ball's thumb hole feels the best. Take that ball to your favorite pro shop (if they have the capability to
make Custom Thumbs for you). A silicone mold is made of that thumb hole. This takes 24 - 48 hrs. Then an insert can be formed from this mold. This can take
anywhere from several minutes to a couple of hours. This insert can now be installed into a bowling ball. Using the same mold, several inserts can be made
so they can also be installed in all of your equipment and have the same feeling thumb hole from ball to ball.
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What is the pin of the ball and what significance does it have?
The Pin is the birthmark of the ball. All bowling balls are made in molds and are held in place by a steel rod. The steel rod must be removed and
the hole refilled. Plastic balls are filled with color matching material while a distinctively different color material is used on the high performance equipment
to make it easier to find. The pin in the high performance equipment indicates where the top of the weight block/core is located. This makes it easier for your ball driller
to better provide you with a layout for the reaction you are looking for from the ball.
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I have heard bowlers talking about having finger weight and side weight in their bowling balls. What does this mean?
These are better known as static weights. All bowling balls are required to be drilled within certain static weights. These parameters have been
set by the ABC and WIBC. They have stated that you are allowed 1 ounce maximum from side to side, 1 ounce from front to back (finger/thumb) and 3 ounces from
top to bottom. To have more than these amounts of static weights requires an extra hole to bring the ball back within these parameters. They only mean something
when you have a plastic, old rubber, or old urethane bowling ball with a "pancake"weight block. Thos weight block was created to help balance a bowling ball
when it got drilled. Without one, they were all bottom heavy. Then the more innovative bowlers learned they could get more or less reaction out of a ball
by drilling the ball with the weight block in different places.
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What significance does Static Imbalance have on the high performance equipment of today?
With the high performance equipment used today, Static imbalance has very little significance. Today the catch phrase is Dynamic Imbalance. The
layout that is used to position the weight block of the ball in different positions is what determines the Dynamic Imbalance along with the cover stock and its finish.
This combination provides about 75% of the performance you can expect from your ball. The other 25% comes from static weights, release, lane surface, and conditioning oil used.
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How can a round object have sides?
A bowling ball actually has six sides. Left side (negative side weight), Right Side (positive side weight), Front
(thumb), or Back (finger), and Top (positive) or Bottom (negative) weights. This is for a right-handed bowler. For a
left-handed bowler, reverse the side weights.
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How many holes are allowed in a bowling ball?
A total of 12 holes are allowed in each ball. You are allowed one for each finger and thumb. They are all allowed
a small vent hole to prevent popping at the release point. One hole is allowed to bring a ball into static weight tolerances. The last is a "mill"
hole to check the hardness of the cover stock just below the actual surface of the ball. This is the hole seen on
equipment used by members of the PWPA and PBA National Tours just above the finger holes.
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